Local Action in the Cascade Range

Climbers and guides on Mt. Olympus. Photo: Jaime Pollitte

Summer has arrived in all its glory in Washington State and Mountain Madness teams have been getting after it successfully in the mountains and on the rock. As most Pacific Northwesterners know, the official start of the summer season is typically not anywhere near the summer solstice, but during the days immediately after the 4th of July. Such was the case this year when, on July 7th, the master “summer switch” was flipped to reveal sun, heat, and endless mountain views.

Descending after climbing South Early Winter Spire. Photo: Mark Gunlogson

Orbit Snow Creek wall. Photo: Mark Gunlogson

The month of June was a particularly snowy one up high in the Cascade and Olympic Mountain Ranges. Consequently, big volcanoes like Baker, Adams, and Rainier are now just getting into prime shape for climbing and skiing--with approaches dried out and glacier travel and route finding straightforward. Our teams have been taking advantage of the stellar conditions. Here’s a bit of a recap…

We’ve had two successful trips to the Monarch of the Olympic Peninsula, the remote Mt Olympus. Guarded by a 48 mile round-trip hike, and the country’s most pristine old growth rainforest, climbing Mt Olympus, by any route, is a real accomplishment. Jason Broman led a small team mid-July; with Chris Petry and Jaime Pollitte following up with a solid crew a week later.

Olympus Overview. Map: Mark Padrnos

On the approach to Mt. Olympus. Photo: Jaime Pollitte

During that same period Mountain Madness teams took advantage of a break in the inclement June weather to summit the North Ridge of Mt Baker and the Adams Glacier on Mt Adams. Both of these routes involve steep two tool snow and ice climbing, substantial and crevassed glacier travel, and solid levels of commitment. Cool temps, clearing skies and motivated climbers came together translating into success.

The immense Adams Glacier. Photo: Crispin Prahl

Massimo Dovesi high on Baker's North Ridge. Photo: Ian Nicholson

The 4th of July offered up its typical bad weather in the mountains (even Seattle’s fireworks got skunked), but this didn’t keep MM guides Jason Broman and Ian Nicholson from summiting Mt Shuksan via the long and complicated Fisher Chimney Route. Both teams had “full on” conditions. In speaking of Jason, client Mark Barnard had this to say:

“He has the patience of Job and the heart of a teacher. He went to great lengths to assure our safety and to make this rookie, 54 year old climber feel good about the experience. The climb and decent pushed me way beyond my expectations, but I always felt secure knowing Jason was there to guide us through to a successful conclusion.”

Nice job everyone!

Over on Mt Baker, Jamie Pollitte and Aili Farquhar led a full crew up the Easton Glacier Route over the same weekend. Situated a mere 45 miles from tidewater, Baker bears the brunt of bad weather coming off Washington’s northern coast. Apparently Jamie had over an inch of rime ice on his new Helly Hansen guide jacket as they battled down off the summit plateau!

Baker in friendly conditions. Photo: John Scurlock

New guide Eric Gullickson and a small Alpine Climbing Course team gave solid efforts over a 13-day stretch that culminated in our glorious weather once the “summer switch” was flipped. They rock climbed in Leavenworth and Washington Pass, climbed Mt Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier, and then Eric and Alex Schuler finished strongly with an ascent of the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. One day prior to their climb, Alan Rousseau guided Jim Stephanou up Forbidden in good style. This was a first for both climbers – and what we like to call an “onsight guide flash” for Alan!

Jason Searfoss on Eldorado with Forbidden Peak in the distance.

Photo: Dave Ahrens

Perhaps the most anticipated trip of the early summer was the North Cascades’ Isolation Traverse with MM guide Dave Ahrens and climber Jason Searfoss. Sometimes considered the northern extension of the Ptarmigan Traverse, the Isolation is just that—isolated! Dave Ahrens writes:

“This trip encompasses everything you would expect in a wilderness adventure. Weather ranged from complete whiteout to boiling heat and blinding sun, high winds to picturesque alpine sunsets. Trails were blazed, peaks climbed, miles covered and friendships formed…overall an excellent romp in the hills!”

Jason Searfoss under Early Morning Spire. Photo: Dave Ahrens

On the docket for the coming weeks are two more big traverses: the Ptarmigan Traverse and our first ever Olympics’ Bailey Range Traverse, an Alpine Ice Course on Mt Baker, Mt Stuart’s North Ridge, summit climbs of Mt Adams and another Baker North Ridge ascent, as well as a bunch of custom rock. Booked on the Baker’s North Ridge, is longstanding MM client Sara Vavra who is fresh off Aconcagua and climbs on big peaks in Ecuador this past winter. The steep ice of Baker’s Norwand will be good training for her next MM trip: Peru’s ultra-classic Chopakalki later this month with Tyler Anderson. And then Denali and Everest, Sara?

Stay tuned for more on our local offerings and successes throughout the Cascades and Olympics. We still have availability on a variety of fun and adventurous trips so please give us a call at 1-800-328-5925 and we can work with you to Make It Happen!

Jeremy Allyn - North America Program Director